Using Common Drills... Seedbed Prep/No-Till
Chuck CoffeySeedbed Preparation or No-Till Methods (page 5 of 9)
Seeds are usually planted in a recently finished, fresh, firm seedbed before
a rainfall (figure 4). Seedbeds should be firm enough to leave a 1/2 - to 1-inch
depression as you walk and should be free of deep cracks and large clods that
can cover seeds too deeply when rain closes the cracks and smooths the soil.
Dragging or rolling (cultipacking) the seedbed before planting firms it. Homemade
rollers work well and tandem operations reduce inputs (figure 5).
Next, drill or broadcast spread the seed-fertilizer (or other carrier) mix. If a roller (or cultipacker) is available, roll the area after planting to cover some seed lightly, leave some on or very near the soil surface, and increase seed-soil contact. For uniform coverage, be sure the seedbed is in excellent condition before dispersing the seed mix. Basic equipment that can band a fertilizer with the seed can be used in no-till operations (Dalrymple, 1999).
Think ahead: Where is that seed going to be after you and the first pounding rains are through? Most grass seeds should be on or just under the soil surface or no deeper than 1/2 inch.
The same techniques as above can be used with common drills in no-till, chemical fallow, or low-tillage methods to plant seeds in pasture residue or stubble. If you use no-till planting methods and common grain drills, plan for the disk or hard point furrow openers to have shallow penetration; plant after a rain when the soil surface is softer, put more tension on the furrow opener springs, or drive two to three miles per hour (Dalrymple, 1999).
Use the proper seeds, including any of the small grains, sorghum forages (sudangrass), millets, and many perennial pasture grasses, to help ensure a successful stand. Some experimentation may be necessary.
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